Shake hands with your hand cards...

 

(I know I just used this photo on my other blog – but for today’s subject I just couldn’t resist)

Handcarding has not really been one of my most favorite activities. Again another one of those "fibre details" I have just glossed over. (A thought: "Hmmmm I don't really know how to card very well" ergo "I don't like carding").

A Close Look at Hand Carders (Rita Buchanan and Dawn Leggett - Spin Off Magazine Summer 1993) compares a wide variety of hand carders available at the time. It includes all the variables to consider prior to making your hand carder purchase. First off, they advise that flat back vs curved back hand cards are purely a matter of preference, and chances are most of us purchase our cards based on someone else's (teacher, mentor, friend) preference. (I stand accused).

And of course there are different cards for different fibres. Cards with 48 tpi (teeth per square inch) are suitable for coarse fibres, or perhaps a first teasing to open a lock. 72 - 100 tpi cards are more suitable for general purpose fibres. 100 -224 tpi range is preferred for fine fibres. Cotton cards can also be used for carding fine fibres.

Some carders have staggered teeth (the wire mesh). Some are lined up in rows. Some are longer than others. Some teeth are thicker. Apparently there are even differences in where the bend in the teeth occurs: before, at, or after the centre of the teeth. (Who would have thought?)

For hand carding purposes, short fibres work best. 4 inches or less is advised. 6 inches is pushing it. Some recommend that the fibre length should not extend the length of the carding surface. In addition to opening fibre staples, cards remove VM, uniformly blend different fibres, and are excellent for colour blending.

A       B        C

And so the experiment begins.

I have two pair of hand cards. My original carders (C)  are good quality, comfortable to hold, and a nice weight. They are curved back carders. I purchased them when I first started spinning. I based my selection the following: The store owner liked them; she said most people used them and she had them in stock. My 12 year distaste for carding began.

My second pair of hand cards (B) were purchased specifically for the purpose of experimentation. Like the aforementioned carders, they are good quality, comfortable, and of similar weight. 

Both pairs are 72 tpi, with the wire mesh teeth lined up similarly. The teeth appear to be of the same thickness and length. I think I may detect a difference in the bend positioning. The teeth of my original cards have a bend at the middle. My new cards have a bend just below the centre. (I’m paying attention now!)

The main difference between the hand carders (A) is that my new carders are flat backed.

In reviewing the carding techniques presented in Mabel Ross's DVD (Handspinning Advanced Techniques) and Patsy Zawistoski's DVD (Spinning Wool - Basics and Beyond) I see two differences. Mabel uses flat back hand cards and uses a sweeping motion when carding. Patsy has curved back hand cards and uses a "nibble" motion- picking her way up the stationary card. I was taught the latter technique and have never really enjoyed it much.

When making my latest purchase, I was careful to check that the flat back carders actually had a flat carding surface. Some flat backed carders are still curved carders. This is the result of padding being layered under the carding surface itself.

While doing my inspections it was suggested to me (different store, different owner) that “most people buy the curved carders.” (Indeed, the customer before me had just walked out with a pair). Ahhh! I decided I would be remiss not to share my vast amounts of theoretical knowledge I had gleaned over the past few weeks. And so I did. Much to the chagrin of the shopkeeper.

And so I have been experimenting. I have brushed, and stroked, smacked, flicked, swept and nibbled. Mabel and Patsy would be proud. I am making both rolags (top) and sausages (bottom).

                                                   

Fibres rolled into long rolags (rolled off the carders lengthwise top to bottom) create "woolen prepared" fibres arranged in a circular spiraling format. Fibres rolled into little sausages (rolled off the carders width wise from side to side) create "worsted prepared" fibre that is arranged in a parallel fashion. Alden Amos prefers to call this a “somewhat worsted” fibre.

Here are a few helpful carding hints from Beverly Horne (Fleece In your Hands - pg 21) :

·        Your rolag should resemble a hollow tube with air rolled into it.. It should not be a solid mass of rolled wool.

·        Establish a rhythm when carding and remember pressure is not required – let the carders do the work

·        Brush rather than pull through the fibres. The latter can break fine fibres

·        The wire mesh on the carders should suit the fleece – fine mesh for fine fibres, coarser mesh for stronger fibres.

And so here we are.

Curved back vs Flat backed carders? As Buchanan and Leggett are quick to point out "Get out of the way if your hear two spinners arguing about which is better. People have strong opinions on this topic! Both styles work in the hands of their advocates..."

I have decided that my preference is for the flat backed carders. Hands down. Perhaps I’m not coordinated enough for the elbow flapping, wrist snapping, nibble technique that I have been trying to perfect all these years. I have said goodbye to noils created by shredding my fibre to bits, and doffing fibre from one card to the other is my new love … yikes! Did I really say the “L” word?

Comments

[US Expat]

Thank you, thank you, for experimenting with these, researching them, and posting this info. Exactly what I was looking for. Now if I just knew which methodology my hands would prefer without investing in 2 sets of carders...